FLORAL QUILTED TEXTILE ART BY ALAURA POOLE

Download Project

INSTRUCTIONS

To hang the textile art on the wall:

Wired Jute Twine

Wooden pole: 22 mm x 90 cm (1" x 36")

Cutting Out

Top background fabric (pink):

Cut (1) 75 cm x 100 cm (29.5" X 39.5") rectangle.

Note: Refer to cutting guide in downloadable project sheet.

Backing (cream):

Cut (1) 80 cm x 105 cm (31.5" X 41.4") rectangle.

Binding (cream):

Cut (4) 7.5 cm (3") strips across the width of the fabric.

Rod pocket for hanging (Cream)

Cut (1) 20 cm x 67 cm (8" X 26.25") rectangle.

Note: Refer to cutting guide in downloadable project sheet.

Batting:

Cut to the same size as the backing fabric.

Step 1 - Print out the pattern sheets ticking the ACTUAL size box in the printing menu.

Measure the test box to check that the sizing is correct.

Join pages 15 and 16 together on the broken line to make the complete stem shapes.

Step 2 - Place the fusible web with the rough side facing down, on top of the applique shapes. Trace the shapes onto the smooth side of the fusible web leaving an approximate 1 cm space between each shape.

Label each shape.

Note: the shapes are in reverse and will be facing the correct way when ironed onto the background fabric.

Step 3 - It's easier to work in smaller sections so roughly cut the shapes into 3 or 4 groups and iron the rough side of the fusible web onto the wrong side of the left-over cream fabric. Iron for 5 to 10 seconds using an applique mat on top to protect the iron from stray fusible web.

Step 4 - Cut the shapes out neatly on the line and group them into piles of flower 1, flower 2, flower 3 and flower 4.

Note: The word flower has been abbreviated to the letter F.

Step 5 - Arrange the flower shapes onto the background fabric, starting in the bottom left corner. Use pins to mark a 5 cm (2") border in from the side and bottom edge. Position flower 4, inside the pins, using the design placement page as a guide.

Step 6 - When you are happy with the arrangement, peel away the paper backing from the shapes and iron them in place for approximately 10 seconds, once again with the applique mat on top to protect the iron.

Step 7 - Working in the top right corner, use pins to mark a 5 cm (2") border on the top and bottom edge. Arrange the pieces for flower 1 inside the pins. Peel away the paper backing and iron the shapes in place in the same way.

Step 8 - Now arrange the final 2 flowers, once again using pins to mark 5 cm (2") in from the edge and using the design placement page as a guide. When you are happy with the arrangement, peel away the paper backing and iron the shapes in place in the same way. (You can now remove the pins).

Step 9 - Stitch around the applique shapes with a matching thread and a clear or open toe presser foot to make it easy to see where you are sewing. Use either a blanket stitch, a zig zag or a triple straight stitch.

Step 10 - When you have stitched around the edge of each shape, layer the top fabric together with the batting and backing fabric, centring the top so that there is an even amount of batting and backing around all edges. Hold the layers together with safety pins.

Step 11 - With the walking foot attached and the same thread, sew closely around the edge of each applique shape. (This is the quilting).

Note: Warm and Natural Needled Cotton batting has been used because this is a lightly quilted project, with this batting the quilting can have spaces of up to 25 cm (10") apart.

Step 12 - When the quilting is complete, trim the excess batting and backing level with the top fabric, making sure that the quilt is square and even.

Step 13 - Take the rod pocket rectangle and fold it in half lengthwise with the right sides facing. Sew the short edges with a 1 cm (3/8") seam allowance. Turn through to the right side and press.

Step 14 - Position the rod pocket on the back, in the centre of the top edge with the raw edges together. Pin in place then sew with a large stitch length, sewing 6 mm (1/4") away from the edge.

Step 15 - Bind your quilted textile art in the traditional way or use our fully machine sewn binding as shown below. This binding is different because it finishes 2.5 cm (1") wide on the front with no visible binding on the back.

Join the 4 binding strips with the right sides facing on a 45-degree angle.

Step 16 - Trim the seams to 6 mm (1/4") and press seams open.

Step 17 - Press the strip in half lengthwise, with the wrong sides facing. Remove the selvedge from both ends of the binding.

Step 18 - Please note: the seam allowance for sewing the binding onto the quilt is 1 cm (3/8"). Begin sewing the folded binding onto the back of the quilt, starting 15 cm (6") up from the bottom corner, leaving a 15 cm (6") loose end of binding. Align the raw edges of the binding with the raw edges of the quilt.

Step 19 - When you get close to the corner, measure and mark the binding, 1 cm (3/8") up from the horizontal edge and 6 mm (1/4") across from the raw vertical edge.

Step 20 - Using sharp pointed scissors, make a small cut in the binding at the mark. Please note that it is very important that the cut is no deeper than 6 mm (1/4").

Step 21 - Continue sewing then stop level with the small cut with the needle in the down position. (The needle should be 3 mm (1/8") away from the small cut, not in the small cut.)

Step 22 - Lift the foot and pivot to the next edge of the quilt, bending the binding around the corner. The small cut in the binding will open at the corner, making it easier to turn the corner.

Note: Refer to downloadable project sheet to see what the binding will look like at the corner.

Step 23 - Continue sewing the binding around the edge of the quilt. Stop sewing 6" away from where you started sewing the binding and remove the quilt from the machine.

Step 24 - Open out the loose starting end of the binding. Fold and press this end on a 45-degree angle.

Step 25 - Tuck the finishing end inside the starting end and cut it so that it will be completely covered by the 45-degree fold.

Step 26 - Pin the binding ends firmly to the quilt edge and sew in place.

Step 27 - Trim the corners as shown in the photos below.

Step 28 - Press the binding out and away from the edge of the quilt.

Step 29 - Fold the entire width of the binding over to the front of the quilt, making mitres at the corners. Pin in place.

Step 30 - Machine sew close to the inner folded edge of the binding. Hand sew the mitred corners.

The result is a 1" wide binding on the front of the quilt with a neat row of stitching that is sewn 1" away from the edge on the back of the quilt.

Step 31 - To finish, turn the quilted wall hanging over to the back. Pin the loose edge of the rod pocket over the wooden pole and pin in place.

Note: This is done to add room in the rod pocket for the wooden pole.

Remove the wooden pole and hand sew the bottom edge of the rod pocket to the backing fabric.

Step 32 - Slip the wooden pole into the rod pocket and wrap and secure the wired jute twine to opposite ends of the pole. (Cut it to your desired length). Now hang your beautiful handmade quilted textile art on the wall.