CLASSIC VEST 2 WAYS
WHAT YOU'LL NEED
- A ruler
- A sharp pencil
- Butchers paper/pattern cutting paper
- Glue stick
- Paper scissors
- Dressmaking scissors
- Faux fur
- Heavy satin lining
- A sewing machine with a thick gauge needle
- Large Hook and eye (optional)
- Sewing needle and thread
Print out the size 8 block at 500% scale. You may need to print this over multiple pieces of paper at home, alternatively you can print large scale at an office supply store or printer. Hand drafting is fine
too - just be sure to follow the measurements.
To enlarge the pattern from size 8, trace the slash lines (dotted lines) and cut the pieces apart as per the illustration. Your pattern will now look like a jigsaw puzzle.
Glue the pieces closest to the centre fold at one edge of your butchers paper or calico. Using the guide below, add a
space between each pattern piece to achieve the desired size. Glue down as you go to ensure you are not altering the overall shape of the pattern.
Grading dimensions to add between each dotted line per panel:Collar
Measure yourself at the hips and bust, your total measurements based on the above should be (Excluding seam allowance):
|Hips (written as waist)||96.8cm||101.6||111.2cm||125.6cm|
After adding the appropriate dimensions between each slashed piece, adjust the gapped spacing by blending out the pattern
lines with a marker. At this point you can adjust the overall length if desired.
Cut out your newly sized pattern.
Lay the pattern on your chosen material, ensuring all pieces are aligned with the grain, and directional nap of the fur. Cut a pair of
the front and side pattern pieces. Cut a single back pattern piece on the centre fold.
Repeat steps 6 and 7 on thick, satin lining material.
For each seam, tuck the fur back inside the entire seam allowance of vest (if applicable) so the edges are easy to feed through your
machine, and lay flat easily. Once seams are sewn, any fur caught in the stitching can be pulled out on the outisde of the garnment wiith a pin.
Stitch side seams of back and side fur panels together. Repeat for lining.
With right sides together, sew shoulder seams of fur outer garment together. Repeat for lining.
With rights sides together, pin lining to vest, matching centres and shoulder seams, having raw edges even. Stitch front, neck and armhole edges together. Trim seam, corners and clip curves.
Turn vest right side out by pulling each front through shoulder and out of the back.
Open out lining at side edges. With right sides together, in one continuous stitching, stitch entire side seam from lower edge of vest to lower edge of lining, matching seams.
Turn vest inside out. Pin lower edges together, matching centers back and seams. Stitch lower edge leaving an opening in centre back to turn. Clip to point at centre back opening being careful not to clip through stitching. Clip corners at front edges.
Turn vest right side out through opening. Slip stitch opening closed.
(Optional) stitch a large hook and eye at desired point to hold it closed.