PATTERN POOLE STRING QUILT BY MONICA POOLE

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INSTRUCTIONS

Before you get started

All seams have been allowed in the cutting instructions. The seam allowance is as follows:

A scant ¼" (6 mm) for making the blocks, 3/8" (1 cm) for joining the blocks and sewing on the binding. A scant ¼" seam allowance is a common patchwork term - it just means that the seam is a thread or 2 less than a ¼". A scant ¼" seam compensates for the loss of fabric that is taken up in the fold of the seam. Instructions are given in imperial measurements to be in accordance with patchwork and quilting equipment.

Quilt Size

A lap size quilt that measures: 130 cm (51") square

Cutting Out

Please note: All strips are cut across the width of the fabric. (WOF)

White

Cut (36) 2 ½" x 13 ½" pieces, to do this:

Cut (12) 2 ½" WOF strips. Sub-cut each strip into (3) 13 ½" pieces.

Navy

Cut (36) 1 ¼" x 13 ½" pieces, to do this:

Cut (12) 1 ¼" WOF strips. Sub-cut each strip into (3) 13 ½" pieces.

Plus:

Cut (36) 1 ¼" x 10" pieces, to do this:

Cut (9) 1 ¼" WOF strips. Sub-cut each strip onto (4) 10" pieces.

Orange

Cut (36) 2 ½" x 12" pieces, to do this:

Cut (12) 2 ½" WOF strips. Sub-cut each strip into 3 x 12" pieces.

Pink

Cut (36) 2 ½" x 8" pieces and (36) 2 ½" x 4" pieces. To do this:

Cut (7) 2 ½" WOF strips. Sub-cut these strips into 8" pieces. This will yield 35 pieces.

Cut another (4) 2 ½" WOF strips. Cut 1 x 8" piece from 1 of the strips then sub-cut the remaining strips into 4" pieces.

Yellow

Cut in the same way as instructed for the pink fabric above.

Backing

Cut (36) 9 ½" squares. To do this:

Cut (9) 9 ½" WOF strips. Sub-cut the strips into 9 ½" squares.

Batting

Cut (36) 8 ½" squares. To do this:

Cut the batting into 8 ½" strips first, then cut the strips into 8 ½" squares.

Cover strips: Cut (15) 2" WOF strips

Binding: Cut (7) 3 ¾" WOF strips

Step 1 - Make 1 block first to test that your seam allowance is correct. Thread your machine with the neutral-colour thread on the top and in the bobbin, set your machine to a straight stitch with a length of 3, as a longer stitch length is required when stitching through batting.

Step 2 - Attach a foot that will enable you to achieve a scant ¼" seam allowance. In the video, a standard foot was used with the needle position adjusted to give a scant ¼" space from the edge of the foot to needle. You can measure this with a ruler or your tape measure.

Step 3 - Double check your seam allowance before you start sewing as it could save you some unpicking in the future. You could also use a ¼" foot if you have one and if you find that your machine does not like sewing through layers you may need a walking foot, once again whatever foot you use, you will need to be able to achieve a scant ¼" seam allowance.

Step 4 - Place a backing square on your work surface with the wrong side facing up, then centre a batting square on top with the right side facing up. (The fluffy side of the batting is the right side). Make sure that you have a ½" gap on all 4 sides between the batting edge and the backing fabric edge.

Mark a line that is a ¼" away from opposite diagonal corners.

Note: The of gap of batting allows for a bit of shrinkage, a bit of shifting and a bit of trimming. When the blocks are joined with a 3/8" seam allowance, it's okay if some minor batting is caught in the seam. The advantage of not having the batting all the way through the seam allowance is that it reduces bulk and helps the seam to lay flat.

Step 5 - Place a white strip onto the block with the right side facing up, positioning it above the marked line so that the corners of the block are covered and making sure that the lower edge of the strip is level with the marked line.

Step 6 - Place a 13 ½" navy strip with the right side facing down on top of the white strip, aligning 1 edge with the marked line. Pin in place. Stitch the navy and white strips together with a ¼" seam allowance, sewing through all layers. Start and finish level with the edge of the backing fabric, there is no need to back tack or reverse at the beginning and end of each row of stitching at this stage.

Step 7 - Spin your block and place a 10" navy strip with the right side facing down onto the opposite side of the white strip. Make sure that the navy strip is centered with an even amount extending past both edges of the backing fabric. Stitch in the same way.

Step 8 - Flip both navy strips over to the right side and smooth the strips out, especially at the seams to prevent accidental pleats at the joins. Now press with the iron, being careful not to touch the batting.

Step 9 - Place an orange strip right sides together with the long navy strip and stitch.

Step 10 - Place a long pink strip right sides together with the shorter navy strip and stitch.

Step 11 - Flip the pink and orange strip over to the right side and press.

Step 12 - Place a long yellow strip right sides together with the orange strip and stitch. Spin the block and place a short yellow strip right sides together with the long pink strip and stitch.

Step 13 - Flip the yellow strips over to the right side and press.

Step 14 - Complete the block by placing a small pink strip right sides together with the long yellow strip and stitch. Flip to the right side and press.

Step 15 - Flip your block over to the backing fabric side. The final strips should be covering the opposite corners by the same amount, if not, this means that your seam allowance is too big so try again taking a slightly smaller seam.

Step 16 - When you are happy with your block, trim it so a 9 ¼" square. It's easy to do this with a square ruler. Position your block with the backing fabric facing up. Position the number 1 of the ruler at the top right corner of the block. (Reverse if you're left-handed)

Step 17 - Locate the lines on the ruler that will give you a 9 ¼" square. Centre the 9 ¼" square over the block, aligning the 45-degree diagonal line on the ruler with the center diagonal stitching line on the block, this is important because it means that all center diagonal seams of the blocks will align when joined together. Trim away the excess fabric from the right side and top edge of the block.

Step 18 - Spin the block so that the straight edges are on the left side and bottom edge. Align the 9 ¼" lines of the ruler with the straight edges and trim the right side and top edge.

Step 19 - Continue making all the blocks in the same way, you will need a total of 36. They all need to be made in the exact colour combination for the success of the diamond pattern quilt as shown in the video.

Arrange the Blocks

Step 20 - Lay out the blocks with 6 across and 6 down, rotating them so that they form diamonds as shown in the quilt sample photo.

Making the Cover Strip

Step 21 - Cut the end of a 2" cover strip to a 45-degree angle. Thread the strip through the bias maker, using a pin to slide the fabric out through the nozzle by about 2". Working with the wrong side of the fabric facing up, slide the bias maker along the ironing board, tilting the bias maker up on a 45-degree angle, with the iron chasing directly after. The bias maker will fold the raw edges of the strip over to the wrong side by ½" on each edge. Prepare 8 strips in this way, these strips will be for the short joins.

Step 22 - For the across ways seams, join 7 strips end to end on a 45-degree angle, press the seams open and prepare with the bias maker. Wind the strips onto a cardboard roll to store them until required.

Attaching the Cover Strip

Step 23 - For blocks that will join onto another block, start and finish the cover strip ½" away from the top and bottom of the join to reduce the bulk in the across-ways seams.

Step 24 - Blocks in the top and bottom row can have the cover strip level with the outer edge of the quilt. You can either cut the strips to size as you go or precut them. To precut them to size you will need 10 at 8 ¾" long for the top and bottom rows and 20 at 8 ¼" long.

Joining the Blocks

Step 25 - Take 2 blocks and pin them together with the right sides facing. Sew them together with a 3/8" seam allowance, making a small reverse stitch at both ends of the seam to secure. Press the seam open. This is what it looks like from the back. The raw seams will be covered with the cover strip.

Step 26 - This is what it looks like from the front.

Step 27 - To ensure that the cover strips are centered over the join, mark a line that is ½" away from both sides of the seam on the back.

Step 28 - Position a cover strip over the join in between the marked lines, hold in place with pins or water-soluble fabric glue.

Step 29 - Straight stitch closely to the edge on either side of the cover strip with a matching-coloured thread, this thread also needs to tie in with the front of the quilt. Start and finish with a reverse stitch close to the top and bottom of the seam.

Step 30 - Use a foot with a guide to make your stitching straight and even or judge the distance by eye with your standard foot.

Step 31 - The stitching lines that attach the cover strip will look like quilting lines sewn ½" away from the seam on the front of the quilt. This is what the seam will look like from the front. (Please refer to image featured in the downloadable project sheet.)

Step 32 - Now that you know the quilt as you go construction technique, continue joining the blocks together in rows as shown in the video. Then join the rows in pairs being careful to pin and align the cover strip stitching lines from row to row.

Step 33 - Finish the quilt construction by joining the pairs of rows together.

Machine Sewn Binding

This binding is like a regular binding and finishes approximately ½" wide on the front but 1" wide on the back to tie in with the width of the cover strips. Watch the final video to see how easy it is to do.