How To Choose The Right Sewing Machine Needle

Making sure every part of your sewing machine is operating efficiently is integral in conquering any sewing project that comes your way. Whether you're doing intricate embroidery or simply sewing a button back onto your favourite top, a sewist's most important tool is their needle. Sewing machine needles are available in a range of different sizes, suitable for a variety of sewing fabrics. With smaller needles for thinner fabrics and large needles for thicker fabrics, you can shop for the needles you need for your next project right here at Spotlight. Choosing the right needle for the job may sound challenging. However, here at Spotlight, we've got years of sewing experience under our belt. We've put together a handy guide to help you learn how to choose the right needle for any sewing project.

Quick Links

• Types Of Sewing Machine Needles And When To Use Them
• Choosing Sewing Machine Needle Sizes
• Choosing Your Sewing Machine Needle
• Choosing The Right Needle For Common Fabrics
• Sewing Machine Needle Maintenance & Replacement

Types Of Sewing Machine Needles And When To Use Them

Sewing machine needles vary in both size and shape. Selecting the right one to use with your chosen fabrics is key to a successful sewing project. Let's take a look at the types of sewing machine needles you can find here at Spotlight.

Universal Needles

Universal needles are the most versatile needles available. They have a slightly rounded tip, meaning they can easily pierce woven fabrics and can work with some knits.

Ballpoint Needles

Ballpoint needles are designed for use with knit fabrics, which can develop holes and unravel if their threads are severed or damaged. Their rounded point allows them to pass between the fabric fibres without breaking them.

Stretch Needles

Stretch needles are a type of ballpoint needle with a specially designed eye and scarf. These needles are ideal for use with very stretchy fabrics such as lycra and spandex.

Jeans/Denim Needles

Denim needles are heavy duty and sharp needles designed to penetrate thick fabrics such as heavy denim fabrics.

Microtex (Sharp) Needles

Slim and sharp, microtex needles enable precise stitching ideal for piecing, quilting, and topstitching. These needles are best for thin fabrics.

Leather Needles

Much like denim needles, leather needles are heavy-duty needles that feature a sharp blade on the tip designed to slice through leather, suede, and vinyl without tearing, preventing skips, and accommodating thick thread.

Embroidery Needles

Embroidery needles are similar to sharps, however, they have a bigger eye so that they can be threaded with multiple strands of embroidery floss or thread. These needles are also available in a range of lengths.

Quilting Needles

Quilting requires sewing through multiple layers of fabric, so of course, quilting needles are designed with a sharp point and a slightly tapered shaft. These needles are ideal for making quick, accurate stitches and for sewing through multiple layers of fabric with ease.

Choosing Sewing Machine Needle Sizes

How Sewing Machine Needle Sizes Work

The size of a needle is determined by its diameter right above the eye.

• Needle size is always denoted by two numbers printed on the packaging. One is the U.S. size, and the other is the European size.
• The larger the number, the larger the needle.
• An 80/12 or 90/14 needle will work well for most everyday sewing projects.
• Larger needles are stronger, so they will stitch through thicker fabrics or multiple layers without breaking or bending.
• Smaller needles stitch through delicate fabrics without creating holes or causing damage.
• It is important to match your thread size to your needle as well. For example, small needles have small eyes and need a fine thread to go through them.

These examples should be used as a guide. There is a good deal of variation in weight and weave in all types of fabric. Make sure you test your needles on your chosen fabric before beginning a project.

Choosing Your Sewing Machine Needle

Now that it's time to start shopping for your sewing machine needle, there are a few elements to consider to ensure you choose the right sewing machine needle for your project.

Are All Sewing Machine Needles Universal?

Most sewing machine needles are standardised, meaning you can use sewing machine needles with any machine.

How To Determine If The Needle Will Fit Your Sewing Machine Brand And Model?

Before shopping for sewing machine needles, it's always a good idea to check your sewing machine manual to confirm the needle system your machine uses. You should also verify that the needle size matches your fabric weight. Another way to confirm your sewing machine needles will fit is simply to check the shank.

Can You Use Industrial Needles In A Domestic Machine?

Most domestic sewing machines require a needle with a flat shank on the back side. On the other hand, industrial machines use round-shank needles, which will not fit properly in a home machine.

How To Choose The Right Needle Size For Your Fabric & Thread

Using the correct and most compatible sewing machine needle for your fabric and thread will help to prevent damage to your fabric or your thread breaking. When choosing a sewing machine needle for your fabric, keep in mind the weight and thickness of your fabric. Thinner fabrics, such as silks and satins, will work better with a thinner needle, while thicker fabrics, such as denim and leathers, will need a stronger, sharper needle to penetrate the fabric.

Similarly, when choosing the right sewing machine needle for your thread, you should match the size to the thickness of your thread. Fine thread, which is often used when working with thinner fabrics, will need a small needle, while thicker threads, used for fabric such as denim, will need a large needle.

A simple way to check if your sewing machine needle is the right size for your thread is to thread your needle with your chosen thread and hold the thread vertically. Let the needle slide down the thread and if it sticks or stops, then the thread is too thick for the needle. The needle should slide down smoothly.

Does Needle Choice Depend On Thread Type?

While you should consider the type of thread when making your choice in sewing machine needles, you should also keep in mind the type of fabric you'll be sewing.

Is A Bigger Needle Always Stronger?

Large needles don't always mean they are stronger. If a large needle is used on delicate fabrics, it can cause damage to the material, meaning it's not as strong in terms of performance.

Choosing The Right Needle For Common Fabrics

Different fabrics have varying thicknesses and textures, so choosing the right sewing machine needle helps prevent skipped stitches and damage to your project. Let's look at some of the most popular fabrics here at Spotlight and the best sewing machine needles for the job!

Cotton & Linen

Cotton and linen are two common fabrics used for a range of projects. Easy to sew, these fabrics work best with a universal needle. Thinner cottons and linens will need a smaller needle size, while heavier cottons will work best with a larger needle size.

Denim & Canvas

Denim and canvas are thicker, stronger fabrics, so a thicker needle is needed to sew these fabrics.

Knit & Stretch Fabrics

Knit and stretch fabrics can easily stretch and adapt when sewing, however, these materials can be prone to unravelling if the wrong needle is used. We recommend using a ballpoint needle with these fabrics as the rounded tip of these needles glide between the interlocking fibres of the fabric instead of piercing the material. This prevents runs or holes in the fabric.

Silk & Delicate Fabrics

Delicate fabrics such as silk require extra care when sewing to avoid permanent needle marks and other damage to the fabric. A microtex (sharp) needle is typically the best choice for these fabrics. These sewing machine needles have a very fine, sharp point that cleanly pierces tightly woven, delicate fibres without causing snags.

Leather & Faux Leather

Leather and faux leather are non-woven materials, which means they cannot self-heal when pierced by a needle, meaning using the correct needle is essential to avoid permanent damage to the fabric. A leather needle is designed with a wedge-shaped cutting point that slices through leather rather than punching through it. This reduces resistance and helps create clean stitches.

Can One Needle Handle Multiple Fabrics?

If you're looking for a sewing machine needle that can work with a number of fabrics, then a universal sewing machine needle is the one for you. Universal needles can work with a range of different materials, including cotton, linen, thin denim, and polyester fabrics. However, they aren't suitable for every project. Universal needles can be too blunt for silk fabrics or too thin for thicker fabrics such as leathers, causing breakage in the fabric. For more delicate or thicker fabrics, it's best to use a sewing machine needle that is specifically designed for these materials.

Sewing Machine Needle Maintenance & Replacement

It's important to take care of your sewing machine needles to ensure smooth sewing, clean stitches, and protection of your fabric. Sewing machine needles only perform at their best for 6 to 8 hours of sewing time. A good rule of thumb is to replace your needle with each sewing project.

Signs Your Needle Needs Replacing

There are a few things to look out for that may indicate it's time to replace your sewing machine needle:

• Skipped or uneven stitches - Often means your needle is dull
• Frayed or broken thread - Damaged or dull needles can weaken threads, causing them to fray or break frequently
• Popping or clicking noises - Blunt needles often produce a sound as they force through fabric
• Visible damage - Bent or broken needles will need to be changed immediately to avoid damage to your sewing machine

Can A Needle Look Fine But Still Be Dull?

In some cases, a sewing machine needle can look perfectly normal and ready to use, yet still be dull, damaged or bent. In many cases, the tip becomes slightly rounded or microscopically damaged. These changes are often too small to see with the naked eye.

Find Bargains Galore On Quality Sewing Machine & Hand Sewing Needles

Sewing machine needles are integral in making your sewing projects possible. At Spotlight, you'll be sure to find the right sewing machine needles to suit your project needs. Shop our full sewing and fabrics collection, including all the sewing machine parts you need and an extensive range of sewing projects. Shop in store or online, where you can find our collection of free and ready to download sewing projects to inspire your next sewing creation.

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